Powder Magazine Museum

Powder Magazine Museum at Jefferson Barracks
342 CCC Road
St. Louis, MO 63125
Directions: Inside Jefferson Barracks County Park (I-255 to Telegraph Road exit, veer right onto Kingston Drive, then right on Grant Road / Broadway) Follow the signs once inside the Park.
Admission: Free
Info: (P) 314-615-8822
http://www.co.st-louis.mo.us/parks/jb-museum.html




Jefferson Barracks was built as a military fort replacing Fort Belle Fontaine near the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers in upper St. Louis County. The site for Jefferson Barracks was selected in 1826 by two army generals, the Missouri governor at the time, and explorer William Clark (of Lewis and Clark fame). The 1,702 acre site was purchased from the city of Carondelet for a $5 gold piece (today that price would be roughly $95). Less than two weeks later soldiers from Belle Fontaine would begin construction on what would formally become Jefferson Barracks in 1827 to honor President Thomas Jefferson.

Jefferson Barracks was intended as a school of practice for American infantry trained at West Point. J.B. served as a fort for the United States from 1826 - 1946. It was the army's first permanent base west of the Mississippi River and by the 1840's was the largest military establishment in the United States. In 1832 the US Regiment of Dragoons was formed at Jefferson Barracks. Dragoons were soldiers trained to fight on foot and horseback. Eventually, the dragoons became the American Calvary.

The Powder Magazine Museum is housed in a former arsenal storage building of the fort. Built in 1857 as storage for rifles, gun powder, and cannon balls the museum today houses a permanent exhibit of artifacts depicting Jefferson Barracks' history and America's history in military conflicts. The museum is one of a number historic attractions on the site but it is free (thus its mention on this blog) and consistent in its exhibit.

Today, the original Jefferson Barracks has become a national guard base (Army and Air), two county parks, Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery, a Veteran's Affairs hospital, and residential neighborhoods. Eventually, the site will also be home to the Missouri Civil War Museum which will be another great destination at Jefferson Barracks in the future. Until then, visit the Powder Magazine Museum and learn more about the history of Jefferson Barracks.

Ulysses S. Grant Historic Site

Ulysses S. Grant Historic Site
7400 Grant Road
St. Louis, MO 63123
Directions: North of Gravois Road (Highway 30) between I-270 and Laclede Station Road (Next to Grant's Farm)
Admission: Free but tickets are required for visiting the home and can be obtained at the Visitor's Center
http://www.nps.gov/ulsg/

The Man

Ulysses S. Grant was actually born Hiram Ulysses Grant in 1822 near Point Pleasant, Ohio. In 1839 Grant applied to the U.S. Military Academy at West Point. The U.S. Congressman who applied for Grant mistakenly listed his name as Ulysses Simpson Grant because his family often called him by his middle name, or Lyss for short (Simpson was Ulysses' mothers maiden name). Grant decided to keep the name. After his graduation in 1843, U.S. Grant was assigned to the infantry and eventually served at Jefferson Barracks south of St. Louis. While serving at Jefferson Barrack, Grant met his future wife, Julia Dent, who was the sister of a West Point classmate. Her family owned a plantation, White Haven, which eventually would become the Grant's home.

White Haven
Ulysses and Julia were married in 1848, 4 years after being engaged, once Grant's service in the Mexican War had concluded. They were a very loving and devoted couple during their 37 years of marriage. Julia was remembered to say Ulysses was "the nicest and handsomest man I ever saw." For six years the couple was stationed in a variety of locations as Ulysses continued to serve in the infantry. In 1852 Grant was sent to the west coast but pregnant Julia moved back to her parents plantation. Captain Grant returned to his family at White Haven in 1854 after resigning from the Army. Grant built a home for his young family in 1855 named Hardscrabble near the White Haven plantation but the family moved out very quickly. Julia would later recall that the home was, "so crude and homely I did not like it at all, but I did not say so. I got out all my pretty covers, baskets, books, etc., and tried to make it look home-like and comfortable, but this was hard to do." (Today, Hardscrabble can be visited at Anheuser-Busch's Grant's Farm completely reassembled after being moved a number of times from its original site.)

In 1860, after many business and financial struggles, the now family of six, moved to Galena, Illinois to work in Ulysses' father's leather shop. At the onset of the Civil War, U.S. Grant would enlist in the Union Army eventually serving as the Union commanding general at the Confederate's surrender in 1865. Later, Grant would serve two terms as president from 1869-1877.



Much of Ulysses S. Grant's public history is written extensively about but this post is about Grant's home on a plantation in rural St. Louis, Missouri. The Grant's would not spend much time at White Haven between 1860 and Ulysses' death in 1885 but always considered it their family home. The Grant's would build a stable to raise thoroughbred horses that exists today as a museum (the red barn in the upper-most picture.) The home itself provides visitor's a glimpse into life 150 years ago on the American frontier. Typical outbuildings of a plantation still remain including a summer kitchen, ice house, and chicken house all shown in the picture to the left.

As a whole, the Ulysses S. Grant Historic site is a great place to learn about the man, his family, his home, and in general, midwestern plantation life during the mid 19th century.

Soldiers Memorial Military Museum

Soldiers Memorial Military Museum
1315 Chestnut
St. Louis, MO 63103
Directions: One block north of Market Street between 13th and 14th Streets
Admission: Free
http://www.stlsoldiersmemorial.org/


A familiar site for many downtown St. Louis visitors, The Soldiers Memorial stands as a reminder of St. Louis' sacrifice in war. The Memorial was built to honor the "gallant sons and daughters of Missouri and of our City, who made The Supreme Sacrifice in the late World War (1)". President Franklin Delano Roosevelt traveled to St. Louis to dedicate the site on October 14, 1936. Appropriately, the memorial and museum officially opened to the public less than two years later on Memorial Day, May 30 1938. The museum has two galleries on either side of an open air loggia. Inside the loggia is a black granite cenotaph inscribed with the names of 1,075 St. Louis citizens who died serving in World War 1. The ceiling of the loggia is a tile mosaic of a gold star on a red field symbolizing the service flag for family members who have lost family members in conflict.

Inside the two galleries are various military items including uniforms, photographs, weaponry, posters and even a jeep from World War II. I personally enjoyed a display case containing World War II weapons, mostly rifles, from Japan, Germany, America and England. The museum is not merely a World War exhibit space. Artifacts from Korea, Vietnam and both Desert conflicts are also on display as well.


All-in-all, the museum does a great job of showcasing how American men and women, particularly St. Louis natives, have served their country for the last 90 plus years. I believe another website I found on the Memorial stated it best: "The Soldiers Memorial Military Museum is there to remind us of the sacrifices made by the men and women who wear the uniforms and put themselves on-the-line for their countrymen ."

The Sheldon Art Galleries

Sheldon Art Galleries
3648 Washington Boulevard
St. Louis, MO 63108
Directions: Half block west of Grand Avenue on Washington Boulevard
Admission: Free
http://www.thesheldon.org/galleries_current.asp

The Sheldon Art Galleries is a collection of six galleries of over 7,000 square feet exhibiting photography, architecture, St. Louis artists and collections, jazz history and children's art. The galleries are an addition to the original Sheldon concert hall, nicknamed "The Carnegie Hall of St. Louis." The original Sheldon ("Walter" Sheldon Memorial) was built in 1912 by the Ethical Society of St. Louis and was designed by the 1904 World's Fair architect Louis C. Spiering. In 1964 the Ethical Society moved to St. Louis county and sold the Sheldon. Between 1964 and 1991, the concert hall was owned by a number of private individuals before being purchased by the Sheldon Arts Foundation. In 1998 an expansion was built that included the art galleries.

A few galleries are consistent in theme: St. Louis Artist, History of Jazz, Photography, Architecture, and Children's Art while others are more varied: Nancy Spirtas Kranzberg and Ann Lee and Wilfred Konneker galleries. The Sheldon does not have a permanent collection which can make visiting more enjoyable when every few months there is something new.



During my visit the gallery that really caught my eye was the History of Jazz Gallery. As a former brass player (trumpet, baritone, trombone, and tuba) I enjoyed the variety of horns on display. I also enjoyed the Nancy Spirtas Kranzberg Gallery which is displaying (until August 15) photos taken on November 2, 2008 containing work from both local and regional artists. Photographers donated their works and proceeds from their sale will benefit the American Diabetes Association.

For an eclectic collection of exhibits and works I would recommend visiting the Sheldon Art Galleries.

Samuel Cupples House

Samuel Cupples House
3671 West Pine Boulevard
St. Louis, MO 63108
Directions: Frost Campus of Saint Louis University, directly next to Pius XII Memorial Library (one block west of Grand and one block south of Lindell)
Admission: Free (Self-Guided Tour)
http://www.slu.edu/x27031.xml


Samuel Cupples, born in 1831, is a true American rags to riches story. In short, he ended up in St. Louis selling woodenware (ax and broom handles, baskets, etc). Through savvy business practices over the next 40 plus years he accumulated an immense wealth. At the time of his death in 1912, his estate was valued at a little over $1.5 million dollars (roughly $50 million today) not including $7.5 million ($225 million) he had established as gifts to Washington University and other beneficiaries.
Cupples began construction on his home in 1888 and was complete by 1890 at a cost of $500,000 ($15-20 million today). According to a PBS special, in 1890, 11 of the 12 million American families lived on less than $1200 per year. The money was spent constructing a Romanesque Revival style home more typically used on churches and public buildings than private homes. In his will, Cupples stated the home could not be sold for 8 years or to Saint Louis University. In 1919 the house was sold to the American Railroad Telegraphers' Union and served as their headquarters to 1946. They sold the building to Saint Louis University for $50,000. The university used it as a student union and office space until 1970 when it was renovated and eventually being placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1976.

The house has three floors and is in great condition. All of the original woodwork, which can be seen in some of my photos, was never painted over after the house was sold. The first floor contains the more public rooms: dining room, music room and library. The second floor contained the family's bedrooms and servant's quarters. The third floor is a break from the traditions of the time. Typically, the third floor would have been a ballroom but as a strict Methodist Cupples turned the floor into apartment-like rooms for guests to stay. Today, the third floor houses the Eleanor Turshin Glass collection. Turshin, who operated a jewelry factory, collected interesting and rare glassware from the United States and Europe during her sales travels. Overall, the home is a great example of how the very rich lived in the late 19th century.

If you are looking for a place to visit a bit off the beaten St. Louis path, I would highly suggest the Samuel Cupples house on the campus of Saint Louis University.

Suson Park Animal Farm

Suson Park Animal Farm
6059 Wells Road
Sappington, MO 63128
Directions: Interstate 270 to Tesson Ferry Road south to Wells Road (Look for Suson Park sign)
Admission: Free
http://www.co.st-louis.mo.us/parks/suson.html

Suson Park is another of the St. Louis County parks containing a variety of family oriented activities. The park itself has a number of shelters, picnic areas, and lakes for family fun, both large and small. On my visit, the lake nearest the Animal Farm was crowed with adults and children fishing.

The Animal Farm at Suson Park is a great place for children young and old to visit up-close the animals that typically make up a farm. For many young city dwellers, this may be their first opportunity to see goats, cows, horses or pigs. From the miniature horses to the large plow horses, each can be viewed and compared. Inside one of the barns are different types of cattle some of which may look familiar to young eyes. My visit was during the weekend but many of the animals are let out of the barns into adjacent pastures during the week. For more lively information, watch the Channel 5 coverage video on the park website link above.

This is just a brief description of the Farm and some of its animal exhibits. Plan a trip and enjoy more of what St. Louis has to offer ... for free.

World Bird Sanctuary at Lone Elk Park

World Bird Sanctuary...

125 Bald Eagle Ridge Road
Valley Park, MO 63088
Directions: See website. (Lone Elk Park is tricky to get to so be prepared for quick .)
Admission: Free
http://www.worldbirdsanctuary.org/
http://world-bird-sanctuary.blogspot.com/


The WBS is a 300+ acre organization that both cares for and exhibits birds from all over the world. The exhibit portions of the site includes multiple outdoor enclosures displaying various birds and species from the common chicken to the rare bald eagle. Located next to the parking lot is the Wildlife Hospital where the rescued and injured are brought back to health. Many birds on display were once treated and now live at the Sanctuary. Closer to the sanctuary entrance is the raptor exhibit where a side-by-side comparison of various birds of prey can take place. Next to the raptor exhibit is the Visitor's Center. Inside are smaller birds and reptiles as well as educational exhibits including various bird eggs, wings, snake skins, etc. A short walk down a hill is the Nature Center and Amphitheater. During the weekends, demonstrations are done by staff showcasing some of the birds talents at the Amphitheater. The Nature Center is another educational area where mammals, reptiles and a variety of raptors can be viewed and experienced. One last note before moving on, many if not all of the exhibit structures are Eagle Scout projects built by young men completing requirements for the Eagle Scout rank.

...At Lone Elk Park

Lone Elk Park

The World Bird Sanctuary is one aspect of St. Louis County's Lone Elk Park. Lone Elk Park contains a number of walking trails, picnic shelters, and driving paths to enjoy the outdoors to its fullest. An interesting aspect of the park is the opportunity for an encounter with some of the parks more unique wildlife. I had to make a second trip once it was a bit cooler but I was able to see some of the parks Elk and Bison.
The White Bison Trail is much more restrictive but allows for a closer encounter with the park bison. On my second visit, the bison were resting next to the road enjoying a cool Saturday. Stopping along the Bison Trail is permitted, especially in the turn-off areas, but getting out of your vehicle is strictly prohibited.

If you feel in the mood to see some of the more unique wildlife in the St. Louis area, I would encourage you to take a trip to the World Bird Sanctuary and the Lone Elk Park.

Missouri History Museum

Missouri History Museum
5700 Lindell Boulevard
St. Louis, MO 63112
Directions: At intersection of Lindell and DeBaliviere in Forest Park
Admission: Free
http://www.mohistory.org/home/


The Missouri History Museum sits on what was the main entrance to the 1904 World's Fair - Louisiana Purchase Exposition. It is very difficult to discuss the Museum without the World's Fair. The fair, which lasted eight months, was an exhibition of the world and its progress at the beginning of the twentieth century. During the fair, the games of the third Olympiad were also held at the fair and Washington University's Francis Field. To think, the third rendition of the revived Olympics occurred a full decade before World War 1 in St. Louis is amazing. Truth be told the Olympics was viewed by many visitors as a sideshow to the Fair itself ... but I digress. Back to the MO History Museum.

The original structure was built in 1913 as the Jefferson Memorial Building, 25 years before the Washington D.C. dome. The museum features continuing exhibits on both Missouri and St. Louis history as well as special exhibits that are for available for a limited time. There are three continuing exhibits at the museum. First is "Seeking St. Louis," showcasing the city's past and present. The next, "Lindbergh" is a gallery honoring and highlighting Charles Lindbergh's life and monumental solo transatlantic flight. Suspended from the ceiling is a sister plane of Lindbergh's "Spirit of St. Louis". The plane at the museum is believed to be flown by both Lindberg and Jimmy Stewart for the 1957 movie "The Spirit of St. Louis." Interesting fact, the only windows on the plane are the ones on the side as the front windows are covered with gas tanks. Last, the "1904 World's Fair: Looking Back at Looking Forward," detailing the origination and effects of the fair.

I hope this brief description of the Missouri History Museum encourages you to visit in the future.

The Pulitzer Foundation for the Arts

The Pulitzer Foundation for the Arts
3716 Washington Boulevard
(between Grand Blvd. & Spring Ave.)
St. Louis, MO 63108
Admission: Free
Note: The Pulitzer is open select days so please check their website for availability prior to your trip.
http://www.pulitzerarts.org/


The Pulitzer "presents changing exhibitions and engages in a variety of programming initiatives involving the visual, literary, and performing arts." The building and the works bring in two sometimes very distinct, yet sometimes separate, crowds to the Pulitzer: artists and architects. The building itself was designed by renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando and opened in 2001. It is one of a half-dozen Ando designed buildings in the United States. Of note, photography is not allowed on the interior but perfectly acceptable on the exterior.

The interior exhibits rotate about every six months allowing for plenty of time to stay current with exhibits. The current exhibit, schedule to run to October 3 2009, is titled the Old Masters at the Pulitzer. The exhibit features pieces from the 14th to the 18th century. To more accurately represent the settings in which the original works were displayed, this exhibit does not provide artificial lighting on the works. Many pieces were originally designed for dark churches where sunlight was the only option for the artist. A constant piece at the Pulitzer is the sculpture "Joe" by Richard Serra which is shown in the photograph above.


If you have not been to the Pulitzer I would encourage you make the trip.

Old Courthouse

Old St. Louis County Courthouse
Market Street & Broadway
St. Louis, MO 63101
Admission: Free

http://www.nps.gov/jeff/planyourvisit/och.htm


The Old Courthouse in downtown St. Louis served as the county courthouse from 1828 to 1930 unitl the Civil Courts Building was built as a replacement. In the 100 years as the city's courthouse the structure was enlarged three times from its original design. First in 1838 adding the cupola and three additional wings, again in 1850, and finally in 1862 to its current size and adding the final dome. The original 1828 structure was demolished in the 1850 construction by adding a new east wing in the original building's location. (See the 1938 link for the original courthouse incorporated with the new rotunda.) The photo shows a clear plastic model on display at the courthouse of the current building with the original courthouse and additions shown inside it.















The courthouse today showcases exhibits on the first floor highlighting the westward expansion of America as well as exploring St. Louis' history from founding to present. One plaque on display read, "In 1860 foreign born residents made up 60% of St. Louis population; the largest group came from Germany. In the late nineteenth century St. Louis, people observed that the French had colonized the village; the Spanish had obtained the town by treaty; the American had acquired the community by purchase; and the Germans had dominated the city by immigration."

The Courthouse also has displays commemorating its role in history. On the first floor, a courtroom display commemorating the Dred Scott cases held in the 1847 and 1850. The original Scott courtroom was divided into smaller courtrooms in 1855 due to structural issues in the building. Another nationally significant case held at the courthouse occurred in 1873 when Virginia Minor filed suit after being denied the right to vote in an 1872 election. Both cases eventually went on to the Missouri and United States Supreme Courts. To learn more on these cases please see the National Parks Services website link above. On the second floor two fully restored courtrooms are available for viewing. (Photos of both the Dred Scott display as well as one courtroom are below.) Stairs leading up to the third and fourth floors allow visitors high above the ground floor to better see the numerous paintings inside the dome.










I hope this brief description encourages you to visit a familiar downtown St. Louis landmark. One last note of advice, plan your trip ahead especially during the summer as parking can be more difficult when the Cardinals are in town.

Holocaust Museum & Learning Center

Holocaust Museum & Learning Center
http://www.hmlc.org/
12 Millstone Campus Drive
St. Louis, MO. 63146
HMLC is located in the Kopolow Building on the Jewish Community Campus in Creve Coeur, MO.
Admission: Free





This museum is perhaps the single biggest reason this blog exists. Of all the museums in town celebrating St. Louis' rich history, this is the museum I chose for my first to visit. The HMLC serves as both a memorial to the countless lives tragically stolen as well as an examination on how a people could be taught to hate. The museum shows the progression of post World War I Germany to the fall of Third Reich in 1945. The exhibit concludes by showing how survivors made themselves a new life, especially in St. Louis.

What I particularly enjoyed was the personal experiences the Learning Center highlights. The day I visited happened to be the same day an Army National Guard unit was visiting the museum. Their guide through the museum was the spouse of a Holocaust survivor. Many of the guided tours are led by survivors or survivor's spouses. After their tour, the soldiers were given a chance to hear from their guides husband. As I slid unnoticed into the back of the room, a museum employee informed me the Army unit visiting was the same unit that liberated his camp in 1945. After he was finished answering any questions they had, the soldiers stood to attention and saluted their speaker. He expressed his thanks by sliding through the tiny rows of chairs to shake the hand of each soldier.

My happening to visit the Holocaust Museum and Learning Center that particular day at that particular time was more than I could hope for. To hear from a survivor their personal account of what it was like to live through that experience can never be surpassed. I am glad I heard it for myself.

Introduction

Hello. Thank you for stopping by my blog. This blog is about St. Louis, Missouri. Sort-of.

The purpose of this blog ranges depending on who you are and what you might be looking for. Personally, it has been my excuse for visiting a number of interesting museums, art galleries, and places that I either have not previously visited or simply not visited with the intent of telling others. For you, my guest, my goal is to provide answers to the simple question of, "What is in St. Louis?" Even more specific, "What is in St. Louis that I don't have to pay for?" Free is always a price people seem willing to pay. My goal is to illuminate some of the "city's" hidden destinations as well as remind you of some the area's more recognizable gems.

I feel that I must mention one stipulation when it comes to what I am presenting. Everything here is not in the St. Louis city limits. While I have ventured into St. Louis County on occasion, I envision that is the extent to which I travel outside of the city. I do not anticipate exploring (for this blog) the western Illinois counties opposite the Mississippi River but never say never.

With that being said, please enjoy this modest blog of places that I have been and places I encourage you to visit. Thanks for stopping by and go have a great trip.

Last but not least, I will close with an open plea to all visitors to let me know of any place you have visited that was free and you really enjoyed.